As a child, the melody of a passing ice cream truck was always exciting. As an adult in Japan, however, the closest I get to that feeling is hearing the mantra-like hawking of a kei truck lumbering through my neighbor with yaki-imo (baked sweet potatoes) roasting in the back.

You can eat yaki-imo as is for a delicious treat, but with a little effort, you can turn these morsels into a fun and easy introduction to the world of wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets).

Alongside the wider availability of refined sugar in the Edo Period (1603-1868), there came a craze for ²â¨­°ì²¹²Ô. These stiff jellies were usually made with adzuki beans and agar, though various versions including sweet potato imo-²â¨­°ì²¹²Ô exist. With the simple addition of a few spices, this traditional Japanese treat can be transported to the Thanksgiving table ¡ª perfect if you¡¯re already sick of pumpkin but haven¡¯t yet had your fill of spice.

While ²â¨­°ì²¹²Ô is usually set quite solid with kanten agar, there is something to be said for using it more sparingly for a softer finished product. While it may not slice perfectly, leftovers are spreadable and can be repurposed as a fun toast topping or filling for other dishes, such as dorayaki castella sandwiches. Pair it with your favorite black tea.

A note: This recipe begins with raw potatoes, but if you have a roasted one, skip ahead to step 3.

This recipe begins with raw potatoes, but you can save a bit of time by buying a roasted one in advance.
This recipe begins with raw potatoes, but you can save a bit of time by buying a roasted one in advance. | SIMON DALY

Serves 8-12

Cook time: 20 minutes plus cooling time

Ingredients:

  • 200 grams sweet potatoes
  • 10 milliliters rice vinegar
  • 250 milliliters water
  • 2 grams kanten (agar) powder
  • 100 grams white sugar
  • 5 grams cinnamon powder
  • 2.5 grams ginger powder
  • 2.5 grams nutmeg powder

Directions:

1. Peel and roughly chop your sweet potato, then place it in a large bowl and cover with water and vinegar. Let this sit for 30 minutes to an hour.

2. Drain your sweet potato from the water. Place it covered into a microwave at 1,000 watts, then cook for around five minutes. Once your potatoes are softened, mash or blend them.

3. In a 1-liter saucepan, mix 250 milliliters of water with your kanten powder, sugar, all spices and the mashed or blended sweet potato, mixing until mostly smooth.

4. Bring this mixture to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for four minutes while stirring constantly so it doesn¡¯t stick or burn.

5. Pour the mixture into a 500-ml square-sided mold. Let it cool on the countertop, then refrigerate for at least an hour. When set, slice or cube as a light dessert or snack with afternoon tea.