Japan can be a tricky place to be vegan. That said, there are some lesser-known albeit readily available products that can help.
Akin to American custard pudding, purin is one of Japan¡¯s most beloved dishes. It¡¯s usually creamy, eggy, definitely not vegan and only sometimes vegetarian. Without laborious baking, however, we can make traditional caramel and a plant-based custard with seaweed extract as a secondary setting agent. It¡¯s subtly perfumed to suit those who find this time of year otherwise overly pumpkin spiced.
Agar, sometimes described as vegetarian gelatin, is not only a versatile substitute. Made of tengusa (red algae) and a type of seaweed called ogonori, there¡¯s a direct link to Japan as well. Agar is widely used in wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) such as colorful kanten (fruit jellies) or to make summer tokoroten noodles.
There¡¯s a tendency to invoke European sophistication by calling this dish creme caramel or flan de leche, but purin by any name will always be a hit. The large size is merely a serving suggestion, so feel free to divide the recipe over a number of smaller containers. Eat the same day or refrigerate for up to four days.
Cook time: 20 minutes, plus 6 hours to set
Serves 8
Ingredients:
- 75 grams white sugar
- 20 grams water
- 150 grams °ì¾±²ú¾±³Ù¨ (light brown sugar)
- 750-800 milliliters soy milk
- 25 grams chickpea flour
- 5 milliliters vanilla extract
- 10 strands saffron
- 4 grams kanten (agar powder)
Directions:
1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, boil the white sugar and water. Occasionally swirl the pan instead of stirring to combine, then leave on a boil for five to six minutes, or until evenly caramelized. A darker color is more flavorful, but if the mixture begins to smoke, it¡¯s burned ¡ª discard and start again. Remove from heat and immediately pour into a round 1-liter silicone baking dish, tilting to cover the base evenly.
2. In another saucepan (at least 2 liters), combine the °ì¾±²ú¾±³Ù¨ sugar, soy milk, saffron, chickpea flour and agar-agar, mixing until smooth. While stirring constantly, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for three minutes. If it bubbles up, reduce the heat again.
3. Pour the mixture from step 2 through a sieve directly over the caramel from step 1. The sieve will remove any lumps and bubbles and will also hold back the saffron strands.
4. Cool on the countertop, then refrigerate for six hours minimum (preferably overnight). As it sits, the caramel will dissolve, coloring and flavoring the top.
5. When you¡¯re ready to eat, you might need to run a knife around the edges of the container to loosen the flan. Place a plate on top and invert, then slice and serve.
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