A live kegani (horsehair crab), gently bubbling from the mouth, is presented to me on a platter in an act that is both spectacle and substantiation ¡ª only the freshest ingredients enter this hallowed dining room. The creature is to be transformed into edible artwork: served in a shellfish emulsion with green asparagus veloute and puree, and crowned with caviar.
I¡¯m at Sezanne, the fine-dining institution of the recently renovated Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi. One of the most celebrated restaurants not just in Japan but globally, it garnered three stars in the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2025 under British executive chef Daniel Calvert and ranked No. 7 on the World¡¯s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2025.
But Calvert has moved on, and the stars have vanished with him.
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