A single clam and lotus croquette crowned with a halo of crisp lotus root sits poised in a pool of delicate cream. A drizzle of emerald parsley sauce harmonizes the dish with its freshness and earthiness.

Both visual and textural perfection, the dish is part of a course at Liaison, a Michelin-starred establishment in Osaka, and served up by chef Yuji Tsuji, who was working his second to last night on the job in late October. After joining the high-end restaurant in 2021, he helped it earn it one Michelin star three years in a row, a distinction reflected in his creative dishes such as a pillowy soft steamed rabbit ¡ª a bold choice in Japan ¡ª with spaghetti squash and carrot sauce, which makes distinctive use of cumin foam, and a pan-fried foie gras and anago (conger eel) married with the deep umami of matsutake and richly spiced wagyu consomme.

It¡¯s a setting that stands very much in contrast with the stereotypical image of Osaka¡¯s food scene dominated by okonomiyaki (savory pancake), kushikatsu (breaded skewers), takoyaki (octopus dumplings) and other examples of so-called µþ-°ì²â¨± (B-grade) cuisine, the Japanese term for cheap yet delicious comfort foods. An exit survey of visitors at Kansai airport in December 2024 showed that 80.5% reported B-grade cuisine as one of the activities they enjoyed when staying in Osaka, far outstripping what they pursued when staying in other towns and regions.