¡°Butter,¡± the 2017 bestseller by Asako Yuzuki released earlier this year in English, is a work of fiction, but it¡¯s inspired by the very real ¡°Konkatsu Killer¡± or ¡°marriage-hunting¡± case of 2012.
The timely book is a disquieting diatribe against misogyny and body shaming in Japan through the lens of food fetishization. While it¡¯s not a cookbook, it counterintuitively made me want to cook, well, with butter.
This is not my first time crossing over into the world of literary fiction. Some may remember my Latvian stew adaptation inspired by Amor Towles¡¯s ¡°A Gentleman in Moscow.¡± This time again, in staying spoiler-free, I chose a dish that was not a pivotal plot point. What it is, though, is simple and delicious.
In French, quatre quarts translates to ¡°four quarters¡± ¡ª the name comes from a recipe¡¯s four base ingredients all being in equal measure. Usually known as a pound cake both in Japan and the U.S., it is basically the same dish known as a Victoria sponge in the U.K.
Whatever you call it, there are versions where you separate eggs and fold through whipped whites that are then baked over a water bath. If that seems excessive, by adding just a little baking powder, this recipe can be made foolproof.
As a nod to Yuzuki, I¡¯ve adapted and elevated this recipe with just a little of Japan¡¯s favorite yuzu citrus. If availability and your budget allows, look for grass-fed butter ¡ª the richer yellowness will show through in the finished cake.
Serves 8
Cook time: 1 hour (plus cooling time)
Ingredients:
- 200 grams all-purpose flour
- 5 grams baking powder (optional)
- 200 grams room temperature butter
- 200 grams sugar
- 4 eggs
- 10 grams yuzu zest
- 15 grams yuzu juice
- 100 grams icing sugar
Directions:
1. Line a loaf tin with baking paper and preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Sift flour and optional baking powder into a bowl.
2. To cream your butter and sugar, mix them together at a moderately high speed until pale, then incorporate your eggs one at a time until the mixture is light and smooth. Finally, mix through your yuzu zest.
3. Gently fold in the dry ingredients until everything is barely mixed, then scrape it all into a separate lined loaf tin (at least 1 liter in volume). Bake for 45 minutes or until a toothpick comes out cleanly.
4. Remove from the oven and leave for 10 minutes in the tin before moving to a wire rack to cool completely.
5. Once cool, mix the yuzu juice into the icing sugar a little at a time to just loosen. Once it looks thick but possible to pour, drizzle over the cake, leaving to set before slicing to serve.
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