Inakatei does not look its age. First opened in 1910, or Meiji 43, it¡¯s been serving noodles for more than a century. A makeover a few years back gave it a modern Japanese touch: wood finishing and furnishings abound, while the communal table near the open kitchen is filled with vases of flowers all year round. There¡¯s a mix of Western-style table seating and floor seating.
Inakatei is located at the western end of Sanjo Arcade, a long and wide shopping street that¡¯s rather quickly gentrifying: kissaten (traditional coffee shops) as well as fruit and vegetable sellers are giving way to lackluster cafes and pop-up shops. Thankfully, the fifth-generation owners of Inakatei do not appear to be going anywhere.
The noodles are made, rolled and cut at the back of the restaurant following a recipe it has been using for years. The menu is spread over a few pages, but in the main it¡¯s a mixture of soba (buckwheat noodles), udon (wheat noodles) and tempura. If you¡¯re looking to fill up, try the set menus such as curry udon or kitsune udon, which come with rice and you can choose between udon and soba.
However, if you¡¯re looking to go beyond the usual servings of zaru soba and tempura udon, try the specials. The tsuke soba is a combination of a cold rich dipping broth served with a plate of cold soba noodles. More satisfying is another cold dish, hiyashi tantanmen, which are chilled udon noodles served in a spicy broth that is as filling as it is welcome against the summer heat.
Noodle dishes from ?580; Japanese and English menu
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