Last year, Suzuya celebrated its 70th anniversary, making it one of the oldest kissaten (traditional coffee shops) in Kyoto. To the best of my knowledge, only Salon de The Francois ¡ª which opened in the interwar period ¡ª pips it for longevity.
From outside, it¡¯s hard to discern how much has changed at Suzuya since it opened. Just right of the door is a small alcove where you can buy tobacco, which is still manned. Even though I was seated only a few meters away I could never fully make out who was in there. It¡¯s one of those mysteries unique to kissaten that are best left as mysteries.
As with any self-respecting kissaten, Suzuya has its theme: photography. Below the kitchen is a sign for a dark room, and the interior is taken up with art work; the centerpiece is a large painting of a reclining Venus, naked and coy. For photographers, there¡¯s much in this Showa Era (1926-89) cafe worthy of capturing.
Besides art, Suzuya¡¯s other specialty is curry. I ordered beef curry (?1,250), which is served in the kind of silver jug that wouldn¡¯t be out of place at a banquet, as well as a big bowl of rice and salad on the side. The curry was a bit stodgy, but the coffee, made with Jamaican Blue Mountain beans, is just right. It¡¯s classic kissaten-style: mild with a strong hit of nostalgia.
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