Two medieval fortresses face each other across the Narva River separating Estonia from Russia on Europe¡¯s eastern edge.

Once a symbol of cooperation, the ¡°Friendship Bridge¡± connecting the two snow-covered banks has been reinforced with rows of razor wire and ¡°dragon¡¯s teeth¡± anti-tank obstacles on the Estonian side.

¡°The name is kind of ironic,¡± Eerik Purgel, the regional border chief, said in the Russian-speaking town of Narva.