Hakuba, Nagano Pref. – In Hakuba at this time of year, ski lift lights illuminate the night sky. Restaurant kitchens run late into the evening, and English conversations spill onto the streets. It’s tourist season at this well-known winter resort, and visitors are back in droves, bringing money and activity.
Their return has also brought an uncomfortable question: In a mountain village of fewer than 10,000 people built on seasonal visitors, how much change can Hakuba absorb before it stops feeling like home?
In the three years since Japan lifted its COVID-19 restrictions and reopened to the world, visitor numbers in Hakuba have surged, reaching 2.9 million in 2025 — more than double the levels recorded in 2021.
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