Snow crunches beneath his boots as chef Toshiya Ikehata*s weary eyes peer through the backdoor into the kitchen, where custard-filled ramekins lay broken on the floor and metal racks are toppled over. He lets out a deep sigh, his breath visible in the frigid air, as he stands under frozen persimmons dangling from thin branches.

Outside of his restaurant in Wajima, Ishikawa Prefecture, it*s eerily silent. He is surrounded by leveled buildings, blocks of abandoned homes and the charred rubble of the central morning market, a once lively corner of the city now partially in ruin.

It*s six days after the quake, but Ikehata has lost his sense of time.