Seo Hyuk-jun, 36, knelt before the white chrysanthemums as he placed a lit cigarette, incense and a paper cup filled with Jack Daniel¡¯s on the ground. He stood, knelt and bowed twice, performing a traditional Korean ritual for the dead.

Day after day, such tributes arrived at the makeshift memorial in Itaewon, one of Seoul¡¯s most popular districts. Young South Koreans used to go there for its diversity and vibrant nightlife. They called it ¡°Itaewon freedom.¡±

Now, the neighborhood has become a sobering monument of grief and soul-searching after more than 150 young ?people were killed Oct. 29 during a crowd crush while celebrating Halloween. Bars that were throbbing with K-pop music just a week ago are now silent, their doors covered with condolence messages and a notice from the local government asking people to refrain from loud music and dancing.