On a wooded lake shore in southwest Hokkaido, the government is building a modernist shrine that has divided the indigenous Ainu community whose vanishing culture it was designed to celebrate.

At a cost so far of ?20 billion, the Symbolic Space for Ethnic Harmony is on track to open in time for the 2020 Olympics, part of a drive by Prime Minister Shinzo Abe to draw millions of foreign visitors to Japan and to Sapporo, where the Olympic marathon will be held.

Also known as Upopoy, or ¡°singing together¡± in the Ainu language, the complex will include a museum, a replica of an Ainu village, many of which Japan destroyed in its 19th century colonization of Hokkaido, and a memorial housing the bones of hundreds of Ainu whose remains were sent to universities in the 20th century.