¡°Is it OK if I smoke during the interview?¡± I ask Bungaku Watanabe, reaching into my coat pocket.

A look of incandescent outrage flashes across the 81-year-old¡¯s face, before I quickly reassure him that I was joking.

¡°No. No. No,¡± he says firmly, breaking into a smile before settling back down with an amiable chuckle.