Sticky, translucent strings dangle from Wesley Smith¡¯s chopsticks as the American tourist relishes his ²Ô²¹³Ù³Ù¨­, the loved and hated Japanese fermented soybean superfood going global one slimy mouthful at a time.

The latest trade statistics show Japan¡¯s exports of the highly nutritious, gooey beans tripled from 2017 to 5,248 metric tons in 2025, with China and the United States topping the list of destinations. The delicacy infused with beneficial bacteria remains a traditional Japanese breakfast staple, but its pungent aroma, viscous texture and yeasty taste divide even its homeland.

¡°I thought it was a little funky at first,¡± Smith says?during his recent lunch at Sendaiya, a Tokyo restaurant that serves all-you-can-eat ²Ô²¹³Ù³Ù¨­ menus ¡ª?an idea of hell for some people yet?heaven for others.