As the train rounds a bend in the deepening greenery of Saitama Prefecture, chef Hiroshi Tsubouchi puts the finishing touches on his main dish: Akagi beef tagliata in a Chichibu red wine sauce accented by a medley of crookneck squash, red radish and purple dragon carrot ¡ª all harvested that morning from his own farm.

The 52 Seats of Happiness train, a traveling restaurant on the Seibu train line heading toward Chichibu Station, is not Tsubouchi¡¯s usual venue, but then again, Tsubouchi is no usual chef. As the passengers ¡ª participants on a special Ichiro¡¯s Malt whisky tour ¡ª tuck into their entrees and whisky pairings, the chef extends a welcome in his typical warm and gentle demeanor.

When Tsubouchi isn¡¯t cooking aboard rolling stock, you can usually find him at in Chichibu. Opened in 2019, his restaurant has earned a collection of both domestic and international accolades, including a 2022 two-toque rating from Gault et Millau, awarded to establishments with a ¡°new take on cuisine.¡±