¡°Just a little more,¡± Alain Ducasse says, looking at one of my wine glasses.

The waiter immediately corrects his pour, adding a splash more Chateau Minuty rose. Inside , the world-class chef¡¯s restaurant in Kyoto, he is at turns critical of some missed detail, and then ebullient, praising the Kyoto wagyu with broccoletti and black truffle.

¡°´³¡¯²¹»å´Ç°ù±ð,¡± Ducasse says, sniffing his wine.