From bustling night markets to refined tea houses, Taiwan is a foodie＊s paradise. The main pitfall will be circumventing your own impulses. Crowding your itinerary may seem like due diligence, but it can actually lead to self-imposed gridlock that stifles spontaneity.
Native knowledge always bests an algorithm: Eat where locals eat and put trust in advice offered freely.
During my recent spring honeymoon to Taiwan, I took my own counsel. When an epicurean citizen offered to guide my partner and I, bright and early, around the Burmese morning markets of Huaxin Street in New Taipei City, needless to say we accepted. The area is vibrant with repatriated ethnic Chinese from Myanmar and southwestern China, the food culture of which pays little attention to maps either.
The Shan people are the largest minority group in Myanmar but are found in pockets throughout the region. At a Yunnan restaurant, for our third breakfast that morning, we encountered wan d身 fen, a hearty and strikingly hued dish of noodles cooked Shan-style with chickpea custard, chili crisp oil and assorted toppings. Fast enough for everyday breakfast, it can be eaten for any meal.
It wasn＊t a dish I expected to encounter or to try to replicate, but therein lies the moral of the story: In the kitchen or on the road, be open to discovery and good things will happen.
Serves 2
Cook time: 20 minutes, plus cooling time
Ingredients:
- 210 milliliters dashi stock
- 35 grams besan (chickpea flour)
- 1 gram turmeric
- 2 grams garlic powder
- 175 milliliters cold water
- 150 grams bifun rice noodles
- 30 milliliters chili crisp oil
- 30 milliliters sweet soy sauce or tenmenjan (sweet flour paste)
- 15 milliliters black rice vinegar
- cilantro leaves
- crushed peanuts
Directions:
- In a pot, bring your stock to simmer.
- Mix the besan, turmeric and garlic powder with water until smooth. Gradually add besan mixture, stirring constantly. Simmer low for two minutes and pour into a flat tray to cool.
- When you＊re ready to eat, cook your noodles per packet directions. Once done, strain and portion into bowls. Noodles can also be cooked and cooled if you prefer.
- Pour the chickpea sauce over noodles and top with your chili crisp sauce.
- Mix the sweet soy and vinegar and add to taste, then finish with your peanuts and cilantro.
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