Within the vast array of culinary techniques, steaming has an unfortunate reputation as dull, unfashionable and fit only for dieters. It certainly lacks the vibrancy and drama of, say, deep-frying in sizzling oil or grilling on a barbecue.

A visit to Beppu ¡ª where food is cooked in piping-hot jets of geothermal steam ¡ª might just change your mind.

With more than 2,000 sources within city limits, Beppu is Japan¡¯s undisputed hot-spring mecca, and the Kannawa Onsen district is at its heart. While the area is most famous today for its aptly named ¡°hells¡± (springs so hot they are for viewing only), for centuries Kannawa was the preferred destination for those looking to soak away their ailments in mineral-rich waters. Besides endless baths for all and sundry, there was another happy byproduct of all that volcanic heat: jigoku-mushi, or hell-steaming.