Before winter¡¯s rough seas make ferry crossings a gamble, I board a vessel at Shichirui Port in Shimane Prefecture, headed for Nakanoshima in the distant Oki Islands.

It¡¯s not my first exploration of the islands, which offer some of the most spectacular scenery in Japan, but, this time, I¡¯m seeking a deeper understanding of waka written by Japan¡¯s 82nd emperor, Go-Toba (1180-1239).

During the last 19 years of his life, while he was in exile on Nakanoshima, Go-Toba not only continued his role as editor of the Shin Kokinshu, a collection he conceived of and which was destined to become one of Japan¡¯s most revered collections of waka, but he also wrote poems that give us insight into his character and circumstances.