Dave Lamason first walked into an off-the-beaten-path kissaten in early 2000s Osaka.

¡°I don¡¯t really want to stay. This one is quite smelly,¡± his wife said. But Lamason, who had recently gotten into the coffee game back home in New Zealand, thought it was ¡°f----n¡¯ cool.¡± With its older clientele bathed in a smoky haze, he remembers the old-school shop served a coffee with ¡°minimal extraction,¡± brewed with gear he had not seen before.

Coffee brewed in siphons, a method often used in kissaten, at Lamason Brew Bar in Wellington, New Zealand. | COURTESY OF DAVE LAMASON
Coffee brewed in siphons, a method often used in kissaten, at Lamason Brew Bar in Wellington, New Zealand. | COURTESY OF DAVE LAMASON