The peaceful, slow-moving town of Tono lies in the rural heart of Iwate Prefecture, far removed from the more famous, well-visited tourist sites of Tohoku. Surrounded by forested mountains, Iwate is best known for its bucolic landscapes and colorful folkloric heritage ¡ª much less so for its hearty, rustic food culture.

And yet, over the past decade, this calm backwater has quietly established a reputation as a dining destination worthy of a special detour. A small but steady trickle of cognoscenti ¡ª chefs, restaurateurs, sake mavens and assorted gastronomes ¡ª have been making their way there. Their goal: Tonoya Yo, a boutique auberge-restaurant quite unlike any other in the country.

Set unobtrusively on a tranquil residential street, Tonoya Yo is housed in a former rice storehouse that once graced the property of a wealthy farmer in the prefectural hinterland. Transported, refurbished and fitted out in a seamless blend of traditional and contemporary craftsmanship, it makes an atmospheric accommodation that perfectly complements the inventive multicourse meals prepared by owner-chef Yotaro Sasaki.