Congratulations, folks, we got there. Just making it to 2021 is grounds for celebration. Nothing inappropriate, of course, and no boisterous crowds. A quiet toast or two at a discreet, discerning local tavern sounds about right. Shuka Nomoto fits that bill perfectly.

Hidden away in a quiet residential neighborhood on the furthest fringe of Ebisu, Nomoto is not the easiest izakaya to track down. The only indication you¡¯ve reached the right place is the logo on the traditional andon lamp glowing at foot level outside the front door ¡ª and the wide picture window that spans the restaurant¡¯s modest frontage.

Anywhere else, this amount of glass might make it feel too exposed, an invitation for passersby to stop and peer inside enviously. No worries here: The only other people you¡¯re likely to see on this particular backstreet will be your fellow diners as they arrive for the evening.