The data is clear, and it doesn¡¯t look good. Our oceans are depleted, catches are dropping, fish prices are rising and the situation is only getting worse. What can chefs do about it? If you¡¯re Shinsuke Ishii, you open a specialist seafood restaurant.
It sounds counterintuitive, but Ishii has very good reason to act. He is not only the owner-chef of a Michelin-starred French restaurant ¡ª the very excellent and ever-popular Sincere in Sendagaya ¡ª he¡¯s also a founder member of the industry pressure group, Chefs For The Blue, which works to promote sustainable seafood. His new project, Sincere Blue, is a labor of love that weaves those two parallel strands together.
It¡¯s housed inside the newly opened , a two-story ²â´Ç°ì´Ç³¦³ó¨-style cluster of bars and diners a short stroll from Harajuku Station. Sincere Blue is Ishii¡¯s hands-on way of demonstrating that a stylish, midrange French restaurant can offer a superb selection of dishes using only fish and other seafood that are not just certified as sustainable, but delicious and affordable. Often this means using less common or well-regarded species that nonetheless make great eating.
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