Though Izu¡¯s east coast may be more easily accessible from Tokyo, there is a reward in store for those who venture west. The final section of the road into Toi, a resort town on the western coast of the Izu Peninsula, starts at the top of a jagged mountain range behind the town. As you make the descent toward the coast, the view of the vast, glittering expanse of Suruga Bay is breathtaking. It¡¯s an auspicious start to my stay at a very special bed and breakfast.

La Posada is a cozy, eight-room B&B run by the Yamaguchi family, who spent over 20 years living in Mexico City. In 1964, the Japanese Olympic Committee dispatched La Posada¡¯s founder, Tomoyoshi, to develop the sport of judo there. Tomoyoshi passed away last year, but he remains a towering figure in Mexican judo, famed for his ambidextrous style and vice-like grip: Mexico¡¯s national team selection tournament is named after him. Tomoyoshi¡¯s former students, many of whom found judo a refuge from deprivation and delinquency, now keep the family well-supplied with the essential ingredients that go into La Posada¡¯s authentic Mexican cuisine.

| NICK SINCLAIR