¡°You¡¯d better not,¡± says a member of staff at the Kamaishi Tourist Information Center when I tell her I¡¯ll be hiking solo on the Hakozaki Peninsula in Iwate Prefecture. I assure her I carry a bear bell.

¡°A black bear was spotted near Kamaishi Port at dawn a week ago,¡± she adds. ¡°It¡¯s not advisable to hike alone, especially in the woods.¡±

I don¡¯t listen.