The noren half-curtain across the entrance, the compact seven-seat counter, the steam wafting up from the simmering vats ¡ª this is the DNA for thousands of hole-in-the-wall noodle joints across Japan. But Ayu Ramen stands out in one crucial respect. Every bowl here comes topped with a portion of its namesake fish, ayu.
When freshly caught, ayu have flesh so soft and perfumed they are known in English as ¡°sweetfish.¡± Here, they are dried and grilled, giving them a richer flavor and a firm, almost confit-like texture. In combination with the delicate noodles and light, clear fish-stock broth, it works beautifully.
Ayu were once plentiful in the nearby Tama River, so it¡¯s appropriate to find them bathing in your ramen here. In the evening, the simplest bowl (?600) comes with just a small part of one, but order the top-of-the-line ayu goto ramen (?1,000) and you get the whole fish, complete with head, fins and tail, garnished with a sprig of tade, a peppery water plant traditionally served with ayu.
It¡¯s a classy touch. And so is the set lunch menu, especially in summer: A freshly grilled whole ayu is served on chilled noodles, with a thick dipping broth made from ayu stock, plus rice and aka-kabu (red turnip) pickles on the side. Definitely worth the detour.
Open daily 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 6 p.m.-1 a.m. (or until sold out); ramen from ?600, lunch menu from ?1,200; Japanese menu; English not spoken
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