Many of Tokyo¡¯s finest restaurants are so hidden away you hardly know they¡¯re even there. But there¡¯s little chance of missing Maruka. In the unlikely event that you fail to spot the large white noren curtain across the entrance, you won¡¯t miss the long line leading up to it.
Year-round, rain or shine, you can expect to wait outside that doorway ¡ª often for 45 minutes or more. What¡¯s the deal? And is it worth it, just for a meal that will take a quarter of that time to finish? The answer depends on how much you like udon noodles.
Maruka serves the chunky white wheat noodles that are a specialty of Kagawa Prefecture, better known by the area¡¯s feudal name: Sanuki udon. Many aficionados say nowhere in the city does them better, and it¡¯s hard to disagree with that assessment.
With your current subscription plan you can comment on stories. However, before writing your first comment, please create a display name in the Profile section of your subscriber account page.