The wraps came off one of Tokyo¡¯s latest renovation projects in November, unveiling a host of sparkling new shops and restaurants. But Nakameguro Koukashita is a development with a difference: It¡¯s just one story high, extends half a kilometer, and brings new meaning to the term ¡°dining under the tracks.¡±

In the past, the idea of ducking into an eatery under the city¡¯s elevated railways meant slumming it with basic food, cheap booze and smoky, boisterous fun. Times are changing, as evidenced by the enthusiastic, well-heeled crowd converging on Koukashita.

There¡¯s plenty for everyone here, from the standing bars where you prop up the counter while nibbling on oysters, seafood, oden (simmered hotpot) or teppanyaki to curry shops, new-wave ramen, Vietnamese-themed ²µ²â¨­³ú²¹ pot stickers and even a Spanish-style barbecue restaurant with wine and grilled meats. Arrive early or expect to wait in line at any of them.