You can¡¯t mention ¡°Fukuoka¡± and ¡°noodles¡± in the same sentence without thinking of ramen. But long before ramen arrived in Kyushu, the local favorite was udon ¡ª chunky white wheat noodles served in a hot dashi broth. No other shop keeps this tradition alive more faithfully than Udon Taira.
Invariably you¡¯ll find a line outside before opening time, and even when you¡¯re through the door you¡¯ll need to wait your turn until seats at the counter free up. Once you¡¯re summoned, be ready with your order. There¡¯s no menu, apart from the inscriptions in Japanese on the back wall, but ordering gobo-ten, the house special, is a safe bet.
The noodles are served in a steaming-hot clear dashi broth, topped with morsels of burdock root deep-fried in thick tempura batter. If that sounds too plain, ask for wakame gobo-ten, which comes with a generous amount of jade-green seaweed, or even niku gobo-ten, boosted with a scoop of lightly simmered, slivered beef.
While you¡¯re waiting, observe with wonder as the dough is rolled out ¡ª not by hand but in an old-fashioned contraption that must date back half a century. And when your bowl does arrive, just add a dash of chili powder and slurp. And don¡¯t linger ¡ª there will be a score of locals waiting for your place at the counter.
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