Recently Tokyo has developed a big appetite for ²µ²â¨³ú²¹ dumplings. These little pan-fried packages of meaty, garlicky goodness are no longer just a lowly dim-sum starter or a ramen shop side-order to help the beer down while you wait for your noodles. They now have a pulling power all their own. They¡¯re also catching on in France, it seems (at least in certain milieus), where they¡¯re paired with wine and hearty bistro staples. And that is the inspiration behind Gyoza Bar Comme a Paris.
This cheerful no-frills space just opposite Aoyama Gakuin University is geared toward a young clientele and proudly announces that its ²µ²â¨³ú²¹ contain no garlic. Instead they¡¯re served ¡ª five at a time ¡ª nicely crisped underneath, with a choice of healthy, vegetable toppings and with sauces on the side (white miso and herbs; tomato, ginger and garlic; or spicy black sesame).
There are salads and various meaty main dishes, such as sausages or even sirloin steak, to match the substantial (and mostly ¡°natural¡°) range of wines. With 25 people wedged in at counters along the two walls or at the communal table in the middle, the Gyoza Bar is hardly intimate. But it¡¯s certainly tasty, affordable and fun.
Robbie Swinnerton blogs at .
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