Comfort food comes in many forms ¡ª as many as there are countries and cultures. In the case of Mongolia, it is likely to look a lot like mutton cooked in a steaming hot pot together with boiled potatoes, cabbage, tofu, shiitake mushrooms and black cloud-ear fungus. That is the kind of hearty sustenance you find at Bao.
This cheerful little hole-in-the-wall, which opened last June in the back streets of Shinbashi, serves the cuisine of China¡¯s Inner Mongolia region, the birthplace of both the owner and her chef. As well as stir-fries and plates of boiled meat both on and off the bone, they offer tasty shaomai (steamed dumplings), excellent ²µ²â¨³ú²¹ (boiled dumplings) in red chili soup and a punchy Sichuan-style mapo doufu (tofu with spicy ground meat) ¡ª but all made with lamb in place of pork.
With its bright red walls, mismatched chairs and comfortable clutter, Bao has a relaxed feel that is only enhanced by the constant soundtrack of 1960s and ¡®70s U.S. soul music. Not surprisingly, it has already developed a strong following and its 10 seats and tatami mat-style back room are full most evenings. Reservations are highly recommended.

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