My daughter, having a little girl¡¯s predilection for princesses, turns out to be an excellent spotter of kids in kimono.

¡°Look Mama, another one!¡± she whispers to me and my friend Elaine excitedly, as we make our way down the back alleys of Yanagawa, a canal town in southern Fukuoka Prefecture. A young girl clips by on her traditional geta (wooden sandals), clinging to her mother¡¯s hand. We spot another one as we round the corner, dressed in an elegant red kimono.

¡°Princesses¡± clad all in scarlet are thick on the ground as we turn onto the main quay, as are spectators gathering for the city¡¯s annual parade of living dolls. While some communities celebrate Hina Matsuri (Doll Festival) in March with a few displays of traditional dolls, Yanagawa elevates the holiday to a living art.