Suzuran has moved. After over a decade building up a large and loyal following, Shibuya¡¯s classiest ramen shop has shuttered its old wood-clad premises behind the police station and found itself a smart new home ¡ª down the road in Ebisu.
Following a soft launch last month, the new Suzuran formally opened its doors two weeks ago. And it¡¯s clear this is more than just a change of address: It is an evolution. The furnishings are plusher ¡ª note the bamboo trim on the countertop ¡ª and the noodles even more elegant than before.
The basic ramen ¡ª ask for ³¦³ó¨±°ì²¹-³¾±ð²Ô ¡ª is a fine, delicate noodle bathed in an almost clear broth lightly seasoned with shoyu and served in stylish wide white bowls. Ditto with the chunkier tsukemen dipping noodles. The dip, also shoyu-based, is lighter now, and gone is the cabbage/beansprout mix that used to make them so hearty. But the kakuni pork belly is as good and satisfying as ever.
The new Suzuran is just a minute¡¯s walk from Ebisu Station, on the right side of Komazawa-dori, just after the first lights as you head toward the Shibuya-bashi Crossing.
1-7-12 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo; 03-3499-0434; open 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. and 6-11 p.m.; closed Sun.; nearest station Ebisu; no smoking; noodles from ?950; credit cards not accepted; no English menu; English not spoken.
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