It¡¯s all thanks to the Spanish ambassador, really. Angeles and I were at the Spanish Consulate in Fukuoka, Kyushu¡¯s biggest city, to pick up her new passport. By midday, we¡¯d done the business, slurped our way through the obligatory bowl of Hakata ramen, and were looking for a way to fill a few hours till it was time to catch the train back home.

¡°There¡¯s a lovely shrine just 20 minutes¡¯ train ride away,¡± said the nice Japanese lady at the consulate, which was actually just an alcove in the offices of the General Medical Co. Ltd. Twenty minutes? That sounded a bit further than we could be bothered going.

¡°We took the ambassador there when he visited Fukuoka, and he loved it,¡± she added.