Shibuya is not a neighborhood where you head for haute cuisine. But all that window-shopping, people-watching, hanging out and having fun can be hungry work. So it¡¯s good to have a few places up your sleeve that offer sustenance and respite from the crowds and noise. Maishin is one to add to that list.

It comes as a relief to find somewhere that¡¯s calm, aimed at an adult demographic and serious about its food and drink. Not that you¡¯re likely to stumble unaided on this cozy basement izakaya, despite its location just a few minutes¡¯ walk from Shibuya¡¯s stations and retail emporiums.

The clue is the sugidama, a large ball of cryptomeria needles hanging above the stairs that descend steeply to Maishin¡¯s heavy timber door. This is the traditional sign that here you will find superior sake and, with it, good food and staff who understand what they are serving.