Tempura and soba: Separately, they¡¯re two essential elements of traditional Japanese food culture. Put them together side by side on the table and they add up to one of the all-time classic dishes.
Even at its most basic ¡ª at a stand-and-slurp noodle counter, say, on a station platform ¡ª it¡¯s a winning combination. But prepared with care, diligence and quality ingredients, the combination is one of the modest masterpieces of Japanese cuisine. That¡¯s the way it¡¯s done at Teuchisoba Narutomi.
More than eight years has passed since noodle-master Masaaki Narutomi opened his eponymous restaurant on the furthest fringe of Ginza. He chose a quiet location, on a side street that is closer to Tsukiji Market than the bright lights and temples of consumer spending on Ginza¡¯s main drag. That does not deter the aficionados: Narutomi produces some of the finest teuchi (handmade) soba noodles in the city.
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