Tourist hordes descend upon Kyoto¡¯s geisha districts, and while some visitors catch a glimpse of a maiko (apprentice geisha) hurrying to an elite restaurant, very few will ever meet one for private entertainment. Even Kyoto residents will commiserate, repeating the phrase often heard in the city¡¯s exclusive restaurants: ¡°Ichigen-san, okotowari¡± ¡ª ¡°New customer, no admittance.¡±

So I thought too, until I met Chris Rowthorn, longtime Kyoto resident and head writer for Lonely Planet¡¯s Japan and Kyoto guidebooks.

¡°It¡¯s not just an issue of having enough money,¡± he said, explaining why even wealthy clients are turned away without an introduction. ¡°It¡¯s an issue of trust.¡±