The cold chill of mountain air hits me as I step off the bus and make my way through the imposing temple gates of Eko-in on Mount Koya.

It¡¯s 10 a.m. and the sun is still hiding behind clouds and mist as I poke my head through the temple¡¯s reception area, where two monks are seated cross-legged on the ground, filling out paperwork at a knee-high table.

¡°Ahh, you must be here to see Nobu,¡± one says upon noticing me. ¡°He will be with you soon. In the meantime, please have a seat.¡±